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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.